Equipment
This is just a brief overview of the equipment used for diving in pretty much (our
recommended) buy order. This order is definitely opinion and is provided as a guide for
the neophyte.
| Equipment | When to buy | Why |
| Mask/Fins/Snorkel | Immediately | Used in every dive, ensures proper fit, and you can put prescription lenses in the mask. |
| Regulator | Buy before anything else except mask... | Your life depends on this piece of equipment and you stick it in your mouth... 'nuff said. |
| Computer | Buy if you dive more than a few times a year or if your trip to the Caribbean is nearly annual. | Better than tables, extends your bottom time, can save your life! The safety and extended bottom time it gives you is well worth the cost. |
| Dive skin | Buy if you do warm water diving. | Protection with little or no thermal insulation. Helps you get in and out of your wet suit. It will protect you from the environment and it's all you need in warm water. |
| BCD | Buy if you dive more than a few times a year. | It will have the features you want and the fit you need. |
| Wet suit | Buy if you dive more than a few times a year in cold water. | Fit and hygiene. "There are two kinds of experienced divers... those that have peed in their wet suit and those that lie about it." |
| Weight belt | Whenever. (Inexpensive) | |
| Lead Weights | Don't buy weights unless you do a lot of local diving | They don't pack well for flying and are provided by the dive operation. |
| Dive knife/tool | An essential dive tool! (Relatively inexpensive) | Useful for cutting fish line and other undersea litter. |
| Tank | Only if you dive every weekend. | Tanks require annual visual inspections ($18) and 5 year hydro tests ($35). Air fills are $7-10 |